Happy July 4th

If you are following Andy’s blog, then you’ve seen that we arrived, settled and are beginning our work.

The day began slowly, as they have so far. If I learn nothing else in Haiti, I learn to experience waiting. Nothing happens quickly here, so you have to learn the art of presence. There is a beauty in simply being, thinking, praying, the quiet. Of course, I’m sure the tropical paradise surroundings help that experience. ☺

An hour later we had bumped over the road from St. Louis du Nord to Port au Paix, where the orphanage is located. Our ride was the mission tap tap – wooden benches on the back of a truck – Berlin, one the orphans riding back with us, sat at my side. She has been with us at the mission the last few days, visiting with Anita, her sponsor. She is 11, leggy like any growing preteen, and grins up at you as she cocks her head. She patiently corrected my vocabulary questions as we rode along. I guessed at the word for ocean as we drove by. “La mer,” she corrected me and giggled, her hand on my arm. Haitians like to touch. When they talk, they often are touching someone, like the sound of their voice is not enough connection. It is a good feeling, of community and simple closeness.

PDA is very taboo here though. This afternoon, the Haitian campus administrator, Magdala, was talking with her husband in the courtyard. The mission wraps around its central courtyard, where trucks and vehicles are parked. Suddenly, the group of women seated in the clinic waiting room overlooking that area started hooting and cackling loudly. Magdala blushed and walked away from her husband. Another American and I were confused, but it was explained that her husband had touched her hair – yes, that was enough to call down a shower of cat-calls from spying eyes! Lots of waiting means everyone watches everything and everyone here.

At the Orphanage I took their photos to send to their sponsors. Orphanage life carries a strong pecking order, fascinating to observe. They would jostle and volley to have their picture next, or to see one more picture. I worked on the “souple” (please) and they responded, asking more politely and waiting more quietly. After each child I would offer to show their photos and ask if they liked them. My heart ached knowing they would never tell me no. The chance to shower praise on each child – “Se bel! Twa bel sourit!” (You look pretty! What a pretty smile!) – that was precious for me. How I wished my words could go further.

Today was my baby fix…although it left me wanting more, I must admit. First, Andy sent me to the “baby orphanage” to document. Checking temperatures, rocking, napping, playing with bubbles – nothing earth shattering, but still beautiful. They ranged from infant to young toddler in a large room filled with cribs and toys on tile floor. The building is on the roof of another, so lovely breezes drifted through and the view is banana trees and the mountains.

I would crouch watching them, and little hands would grasp at my camera. “¿Eske ou vle we foto?” I’d ask in broken Creole (Do you want to see the photo?). The LCD screen on my camera fascinated them. I returned later in the evening to bring Madeline, a tiny baby, back to the room after she spit up all over us both. After delivering the messy child, my hands were grasped and I was directed over to the rocking chairs. “E-I-E-I-O” they repeated as I sang them Old McDonald Had a Farm. I doubt they even recognized my meows and barks – onomatopeia doesn’t often translate, oddly enough.

Tomorrow we drive out west, to Salines-Mayette, in the middle of NOWHERE. We’ll be camping for a night or two on the land where they’re preparing to build the new orphanage. No running water, no electricity, little shade, lots of heat and bugs, and a long, bumpy ride up and down Haitian mountains to get there. It will be unforgettable, no doubt. Oh, and no internet, in case you were wondering, so we may not post for the next few days, but no worries.

Well, no fireworks today, but a little lightning and rain to round out the evening. Happy 4th. – Erika







Above: a snapshot from the taptap ride; a quick portrait of Berlin; one of my favorite moments in the baby orphanage.